PARIS – In the run-up to the Paris Olympics, Louis Vuitton celebrated the beauty of humans and their skin in a star-studded menswear showcase at the headquarters of the U.N. cultural agency UNESCO in Paris. Models wearing garb in all the hues of human flesh paraded around a giant globe on grass patterned in Vuitton’s signature Damier check, creating a visual symphony of diversity.
“It was an homage to human beings,” said menswear designer Pharrell Williams on Tuesday night, who name-checked the Summer Olympics, for a show that felt like a journey across continents against a backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and a giant shell globe. “It went from black to dark brown to brown to light brown to beige, a little bit of gray … and then finally to white,” the singer-turned-couturier said of the spring display celebrating diversity.
The spectacular collection prominently featured checks in shades of green, blue, and black, drawing inspiration from the designs of Air Afrique luggage. This airline, which operated from the 1960s and for decades, has become a symbol of diasporic creativity, according to Vuitton. With contributions from creatives like Lamine Diaoune and Djiby Kebe, Williams infused the collection with a sense of global unity.
Inspired by the U.N. cultural headquarters populated with ambassadors, Williams explored various archetypes. The diplomat was featured in deep, rich tones of 1970s-inflected tailoring. The explorer appeared in sturdy yet stylish outerwear, including utility jackets and vests. The dandy, another key figure, strutted down the Damier-check grass runway in jackets and coats adorned with rhinestones and pearl embroidery.
Set against a dramatic sky, with shifting clouds and fluttering world flags, the collection’s progression of colors mirrored the diversity of the models, moving from darker to lighter tones. This gave way to a more integrated mix, symbolizing multicultural harmony. This theme extended to the garments, which included pixelated python skin patterns and world maps centered on Africa. A reinterpretation of the Damier pattern featured pale brown checks with multicolored accents. Soccer ball leather designs paid tribute to the world’s favorite sport.
Enamel maps were embedded in buttons, and the LV logo appeared subtly embossed on materials. Intricate details like black-on-black embroidery and crystal and pearl accents added layers of sophistication.
It also featured a range of luxury accessories, including vintage-inspired designs in soft leather with oversized monogram patterns and aged leather trims.
The show blended complexity with apparent simplicity, serving as both a showcase for luxury and a universal statement about unity, division, and the richness of the diaspora.
Once again, the celebrity designer made the show almost more about the act of putting on a spectacle, rather than a showcase for clothes. This appears to be the zeitgeist. Among the stars applauding were Alicia Vikander and Michael Fassbender.
Speaking about the tumult of the world currently, and the prevalence of the world’s flags around the U.N. building representing some nations at loggerheads or worse, Pharrell said that he would “never dare to think (this show) we could be a reason for people to come together. But to present that notion (of peace) and to present the possibility in a poetic way, is the only thing that we can do.’”
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